Hem Calculator — Folded Hem Dimensions & Stitches

A folded hem is knitted twice the desired depth, with a turning ridge in the middle. The facing folds to the inside and is sewn or knitted together with the body. It creates a clean, professional edge without ribbing.

For stockinette, work one row of purl on the right side (or knit on the wrong side) at the fold point. This creates a natural fold line. For a picot hem, work *k2tog, yo* across the turning row instead.

The most reliable method is to work the facing on a needle half a size to one size smaller than the body (or one row shorter) so the inside layer pulls in slightly — this keeps the live-stitch count identical to the body for a clean join. Reducing the facing stitch count by 5-10% with a decrease round after the turning ridge is a secondary option, but it changes the stitch count across the fold and can distort the fabric, so a smaller facing needle is generally preferred.

The neatest method is to pick up the cast-on stitches and knit them together with the live stitches (like a three-needle bind-off from the inside). Alternatively, sew the facing down with a tapestry needle.

Use a blunt tapestry needle in a size appropriate for your yarn weight. For DK, a size 18-20 tapestry needle works well. The blunt tip prevents splitting the yarn stitches.